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Archive for the ‘chef’ Category

Hungry for change?

Hungry for change?

If you missed Food Inc. when it first came out, or you want to see it again, there are two screenings this weekend at the charming Miami Beach Cinematheque on South Beach. These screenings are part of the new Cinema GREEN environmental film series in collaboration with ECOMB (Environmental Coalition of Miami Beach).

Friday, August 21, 2009 at 7:00 PM
Screening followed by Q&A with organic farmer Gabriele Marewski from Paradise Farms Organic.

Saturday, August 22, 2009 at 7:00 PM
Screening followed by Q&A with Chef Jeff Mcinnis from De Lido Beach Club at the Ritz Carlton.

Buy tickets online

Miami Beach Cinematheque
512 Espanola Way
Miami Beach, FL 33139
Phone: (305) 673-4567
Website: www.mbcinema.com
E-Mail: info(at)mbcinema.com

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Still have a few more posts about the Small Farms Conference. There was a lot going on, but I focused on attending sessions where members of Redland Organics were presenting (or if there was a focus on local food systems). Here’s notes from Margie Pikarsky’s presentation on marketing.

Diversify! was Margie’s main theme, as in don’t put all your eggs in one basket. She raises various fruits and vegetables and animals (eggs) and also sells merchandise (tote bags and cookbooks).

Providers. Redland Organics CSA got started because of diversifying. Margie told the story of how Gabriele Marewski of Paradise Farms originally started the CSA. She was growing only a few things, and Margie was growing a few other things, and combined they were a good variety for their customers. From there, Redland Organics grew as other organic or non-spray/natural growers were included. Currently there are eight providers within a 160 mile radius. Membership in the CSA grew from 40 in the first season (2002-2003) and topped at 450 shares this past season.

Crops. Margie started with avocados and greens, but now gets more money per square foot from vegetables. She recommends growing something unique that would appeal to the public. For her it’s heirloom tomatoes, and usually she raises around 30 different varieties. Diversify also means to interplant crops, such as tomatoes with mustard greens, or a short crop with a second crop.

Seasonal offerings. In summer there are eggs and fruit for sale — mangos, avocados, passion fruit, jakfruit — depending on whatever is available from various local sources. Emails are sent out to customers and payments are made online. Customers pick up at the farm or one other site in the city. Margie doesn’t grow vegetables in summer but plants a cover crop instead, such as black eyed peas. During the winter CSA season, her crew picks to order on Thursday, and additional deliveries start coming in. The CSA boxes are packed on Friday. Saturday morning the shares go out by truck to various drop off points in town for customer pick up.

Labor. Bee Heaven Farm relies on volunteers from WWOOF and occasional interns. Margie tries to get seasonal people who will stay for at least a couple months. The work crew is small, about 6 to 8 people, and is intensely managed. Everything is handwork, only Margie uses the tractor and other machinery. She pays somebody local year round to pull weeds and gather eggs.

Various sources of income.
The CSA brings in 75 percent, and farmers market 15 percent. The other 10 percent comes from avocados, honey, tomato starts, greens, workshops, eggs, value added products, and other products (totes, cookbooks).

Direct marketing. Redland Organics has space at the South Florida Farmers Market in Pinecrest, and at the peak of the season added a large table devoted to heirloom tomatoes. Last two seasons Margie sold avocados to Whole Foods. Participating in select events and festivals is also a good way to get exposure.

Agritourism. Bee Heaven Farm is open to the public twice a year. Farm Day is in winter and started as a small potluck. Last season it grew to 200 people attending. A small market is offered on the side. There’s also the end-of-season Gleaning Day, also a potluck, then customers go through the rows to pick the last of the season. Mothers Day brunch with tables set under the trees was a new event, featuring local food prepared by the chefs of Mise en Place.

Workshops. A series of four cooking workshops were offered last winter. Margie teamed up with chefs Adri Garcia and Rachel O’Kaine of Mise en Place, who used all local ingredients except for flour, sugar, salt and oil. The tamale workshop was hands on, and participants picked and shucked corn, and shaped their own tamals. When Margie needed to cull roosters she held a chicken processing workshop. Participants watched her process the first bird, then did their own and got to take it home. Margie said that people do want to know more and connect with their food, and these interactive workshops help them connect.

Value added. Other diversity is through dried fruits (mango, banana etc.) and tomatoes. Tip: Margie uses a venison dryer from Cabela’s. She also makes various spice rubs that include her herbs.

Currently Margie and a couple other growers in RO are working with their local county commissioner to allow on-farm food processing and commercial kitchens. The state laws allows this, but county zoning ordinances do not. A change in zoning would also allow for B&Bs, which would have to be located on an active farm (unless it was a historically designated building), and would have to follow certain restaurant kitchen requirements. Language for this change in zoning is being drafted now and will come up for a vote in fall.

Download the Powerpoint slide show and the handout from this session.

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Hani Khouri says "Cheese!"

Hani Khouri says "Cheese!"

Hani Khouri, owner of Redland Mediterranean Organics (and the latest grower to join Redland Organics), makes cheese and ice cream from goat milk. Wait a minute… what’s that… goat milk ice cream? Um, how does it taste? Like really, really good ice cream. And when was the last time that you experienced a flavor like papaya-wild orchid or mango-wild orchid, fruity and sweet with a perfume-y finish. No goat flavors in the ice cream, no worries. How Hani does it is a secret, he says, and I’ve tried to find out.

The ice cream flavors run towards the tropical. There’s jakfruit, mamey, and plain mango, from fruits sourced locally in Redland and subject to availability. For traditionalists there’s vanilla bean, chocolate (to die for), peach, raspberry and strawberry. All flavors are sweetened with agave.

Hani also makes two kinds of cheeses. One is a firm cheese with texture like feta but less salt and no goat-y flavor. It’s

Labneh with olive oil

Labneh with olive oil

one of my favorites. I’ve put it in sandwiches and salads, goes great with arugula. Last Saturday I sampled Hani’s latest offering — labneh, a soft cheese with the spreadability of cream cheese, and with the familiar tang of goat (but not too much). Labneh, Hani explained to me, begins as goat milk yoghurt that is drained and salted. No fan of typical goat cheese, I hesitated before sampling the it with olive oil on whole wheat pita — and was pleasantly surprised by its flavor — a mild goat presence, but not too overwhelming — nice!

Also on the Redland Mediterranean Organics menu is hummus, tabouli, falafel and baba ganoush. They’re all super fresh. When I dropped by Hani’s tent last on a rainy Saturday afternoon at the Coconut Grove Organic Farmers Market, he was finely chopping organic mint to stir into the tabouli. (The mint was picked at Bee Heaven Farm just the day before, and so were the scallions.) The invigorating aroma of mint floated into the air and drew people to the tent. “What’s that you’re making,” they asked, and hung around waiting for him to finish.

Stirring mint into fresh tabouli

Stirring mint into fresh tabouli

“So what is local food?” Hani asked as he chopped and stirred. “How far do you go to get locally produced food?” The boundaries of a local food area could be set at 100 miles. Or it could be 400 miles. Hani quoted the Farm Bureau as saying local for Miami is anywhere from Florida. Or it could be 7 hours by truck or plane — now wait a minute, that’s pushing it! But where does local food come from — a warehouse, or the field or orchard? And how does it get to the market — airplane, truck, goat cart or walking? Hani asked again, “How far can local food travel and stay local?” I replied, “Redland Organics CSA sources food from 150 miles or less.” Hani gets his goat milk even closer than that — about 50 feet from his kitchen door to the Nubian goats that he raises. He laughed and said proudly, “I’m a local producer who’s also a chef.” He also sells what he makes, and eats what he sells.

Hungry yet? Find Hani Khouri and goodies from Redland Mediterranean Organics at the Saturday farmer’s market in Coconut Grove on Grand Ave. and Margaret St. (just west of 32 Ave.), or at the new greenmarket by The Alamo at the Jackson Memorial complex on Thursdays around lunchtime. Enjoy!

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