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Posts Tagged ‘Steven Green’

Browsing for organic seedlings at the Bee Heaven Farm tent.

Browsing for organic seedlings at the Bee Heaven Farm tent.

(part 1 of 2)

Back for its second year this October, GrowFest! was the event for gardeners and locavores. Despite rain on Saturday afternoon and a slow start on Sunday morning, well over 1300 adults and kids came to the Fruit and Spice Park to browse for plants and nosh on good eats. Farmer Margie Pikarsky of Bee Heaven Farm, who organized the event (along with a group of fantastic volunteers), was delighted that the event is growing.

This year there was a mix of familiar and new vendors and exhibitors, a few less than last year, but each was worth checking out. Gardeners had plenty of plants to look at and buy, locavores found delicious things to taste, and there were plenty of interesting and knowledgeable people to talk to, with a wide variety of demos to attend.

GF-wagon

The best way to carry mass quantities of seedlings!

Bee Heaven Farm had its usual sea of organic seedlings. Along with dozens of varieties of heirloom tomatoes, you could also choose from a selection of vegetables, herbs and greens that grow well in our climate and are regularly raised at the farm. In response to customer demand, there were several varieties of eggplant, sweet and hot peppers, Asian greens, and intriguing herbs like lemongrass, curryleaf, turmeric (new this year).

Farm intern Nicole Fiori helps a customer choose heirloom tomato seedlings.

Farm intern Nicole Fiori (right)helps a customer choose heirloom tomato seedlings.

A big thanks to farm employee Luz, intern Nicole, and volunteers Dhilini, Alhen and Holly who were on hand all weekend!

Selecting loofahs and goat's milk soap.

Selecting loofahs and goat’s milk soap.

New this year was the addition of Flair’s Fayre line of goat milk products. The husband and wife team of Pat Houle and Dan McGillicuddy, along with their assistant Christine, were on hand with offerings of raw goat milk and cheeses (for pet consumption only), and an assortment of deliciously aromatic soaps that were very popular. All products are made with milk from their small herd of goats.

Margie Pikarsky, Marty Mesh and Steven Green discuss matters at the FOG tent.

Margie Pikarsky, Marty Mesh and Steven Green discuss matters at the FOG tent.

At the Florida Organic Growers and Consumers Inc. (FOG) tent, folks were selling chilled Uncle Matt’s organic citrus juices and sharing information on organic certification. Marty Mesh, the executive director, returned this year along with several staffers who were thrilled to introduce their newest statewide program, Fresh Access Bucks (FAB).

Staffer Carmen Franz explained that FAB doubles value, up to $20, that SNAP recipients can use to buy Florida grown fruits and vegetables at participating farmers markets. So far, FABs are accepted at Urban Oasis Project farmers markets and Bee Heaven Farm (in this area). This new program is funded by a grant from the state agriculture department, and Wholesome Wave, a non-profit which pioneered matching funds. Become a member to help FOG support “a sustainable and just food and farm system for all.”

Two Innovative Farmers of the Year! Margie Pikarsky (2013) and Gabriele Marewski (2012).

Two Innovative Farmers of the Year! Margie Pikarsky (2013) and Gabriele Marewski (2012).

Farmer Gabriele Marewski of Paradise Farms Organic brought two kinds of salads: cactus salad made with nopalitos, and her signature Baby Brassica Blend which includes a colorful sprinkling of edible flowers. The farm is known for its elegant, gourmet Dinner in Paradise and Brunch in Paradise series, season starting soon.

Alfredo Anez, Katie Sullivan and Gretchen Schmidt are the key people who produce Edible South Florida.

Alfredo Anez, Katie Sullivan and Gretchen Schmidt are the key people who produce Edible South Florida.

Edible South Florida magazine debuted their latest issue, which is all about local food. Many local growers and artisans are featured, and if you haunt farmers markets and locavore restaurants and cafes, they may be familiar to you too — Helen Cole’s jerky, Hani’s falafel, and Zak’s bread to name a few. I spotted a picture of farmer Margie on page 23. (Next to it is a brief essay I wrote about Farm Day.) You can pick up a copy for free at Whole Foods, Joanna’s Marketplace and other locations around town.

Giant African Land Snails (GALS) in carious stages of growth. A sample of their eggs is in the upper right corner.

Giant African Land Snails (GALS) in various stages of growth. A sample of their eggs is in the upper right corner.

And the villain of GrowFest! was back for an encore — the Giant African Land Snail (GALS). It’s an invasive species that devours over 500 kinds of plants and is capable of munching stucco off your house. Fully grown, the snail is as big as your hand, and has unique vertical jagged stripes on its shell. If you see a GALS in your yard, absolutely do NOT touch it! Call the state Division of Plant Industry at 888-397-1517 to come get it. These snails can harbor a microscopic nematode that can infect your brain and kill you. Over 131,000 GALS have been located and captured in South Florida in the past two years.

Grower Arturo Gonzalez, of Margarita's Fruits & Vegetables brought a forest of mango and avocado saplings.

Grower Arturo Gonzalez, of Margarita’s Fruit Trees, brought a forest of mango and avocado saplings.

GF-bananas

Bananas and plantains at Going Bananas

GF-bees

Beekeeping books and supplies from South Florida Bee Supplies.

Carnivorous plants from Envy Botanicals

Carnivorous plants from Envy Botanicals

Landscaping plants at Casey's Corner Nursery

Landscaping plants at Casey’s Corner Nursery.

Fresh potted herbs from Teena's Pride Farm

Fresh potted herbs from Teena’s Pride Farm.

Learn how to compost with worms, from the Fertile Earth Foundation.

Learn how to compost with worms, from the Fertile Earth Foundation.

Kamala Fletcher, Christiana Serlé, and Mike Moskos of the South Florida Food Policy Council

Kamala Fletcher, Christiana Serlé, and Mike Moskos of the South Florida Food Policy Council discuss the community’s food issues.

Ken Holden advocates incorporating Redland

Ken Holden advocates incorporating Redland.

Buy native plants from the Urban Paradise Guild

Buy native plants from the Urban Paradise Guild

(To be continued…)

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SFDB Post of the Month


Glory be and hallelujah! The good folks over at South Florida Daily Blog decided they liked my post, For the Love of Lychees, so much that they voted it the post of the month for June.

Thanks for the honor! I’m touched the post brought back pleasant memories of savoring backyard fruit. Place has a taste, and those local flavors tell you where you are, or where you are from. Glad I was able to help you (and hopefully others) make that connection.

Many, many thanks to lychee grower Steven Green who invited me to document picking day, and gave me lots of good information. Couldn’t have done it without his help.

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Organic lychees ripening in the morning sun.

The lychees in this week’s summer fruit offering come from Green Groves, not too far from Bee Heaven Farm. Steven Green, the grower, invited me to see how lychees get picked. He had an order from Whole Foods, and hired a picking crew to help. If you were in Whole Foods last weekend or this weekend and saw pint containers of organic lychees for sale, those were the ones!

Up in the cherry picker, Gonzalo picks lychees.

Picking work starts early. Golden morning sunlight was just breaking over the tops of trees from the grove across the road. The air was cool and full of sounds of birds. Dew was still clinging to weeds under the lychee trees. Ripening fruit hung in heavy clusters on the trees. At 7 am, the crew was already getting started. They had dropped off their cherry picker the day before. It was a simple contraption — an engine on three wheels, with a boom arm and bucket. Gonzalo, one of the workers, stood in the bucket and manipulated the controls to raise the boom and drive the picker to a different spot. When I arrived, he was already at tree top level gathering fruit.

Gonzalo held a pair of heavy duty clippers in one hand, and reached with his other hand to grab clusters of lychees called panicles. He snipped the panicle and placed it into one of the bins fastened to the sides of the bucket. He started with the first tree by the gate, and worked from top down. Then he moved to the other side of the tree, gracefully maneuvering the picker, and again clipped fruit from the top down. “Usually the whole tree ripens at the same time. The lower branches ripen before the upper. And the top gets eaten by grackles,” Steven said with a laugh. “I have enough to share.” He has 125 trees planted on two acres, and has been growing lychees since 1992, and avocados for 15 years before then.

Hidalgo loads fruit that Gonzalo gathered.

The rising morning sun shone on Gonzalo’s face as he worked silently and quickly. Bins filled up with lychees. The picker’s gasoline engine clattered, and grackles screeched from a nearby tree. He lowered the bucket and Hidalgo came with a gardener’s cart and dumped lychees into it. When the cart was full, he walked back with the cart to the improvised packing house. A long table had been set in the carport of Steven’s house. Hidalgo dumped lychees onto the table. It had a raised lip along the edges, to keep precious fruit from rolling away.

Steven shows Leticia the acceptabe size for coffee spots.

Leticia, the owner of the picking company, stood at the table and checked each individual fruit. She has been packing fruit for 25 years and has a keen eye for the perfect ones. “This crew knows ripeness,” Steven said. They have worked for him for many years. Steven reviewed with Leticia how he preferred to grade the fruit. The perfect ones went into a green bin. The less than perfect ones, called number twos, were tossed into a box. A number two lychee was one that had a brown blemish called a coffee spot. Steven explained the coffee spots were harmless and didn’t affect flavor or quality of the fruit. Spots the size of a pencil eraser were ok, but bigger ones were not. Spotted number twos are still good to eat, but in this case would get sold to make wine or ice cream. Steven pointed out, “Buyers of number twos are price sensitive and understand that the blemishes have no effect on fruit quality except for appearance.”

The sweet perfume of ripe lychees filled the air. Steven showed me the difference between a perfectly ripe lychee and one that wasn’t quite there. The not as ripe fruit’s skin had little spines or bumps. A ripe fruit’s bumps flattened out. Steven explained that as it ripened, the lychee grew more plump and rounded, which stretched its skin and flattened out the bumps.

Hidalgo, Gonzalo, Betty, Steven and Shelly grading and packing fruit.

Picking is all a matter of timing. Pick too early and the lychees are a little sour. (I happened to eat some of those a couple weeks ago.) Wait a little for the fruit to ripen more and it gets sweeter and tastes like lychee. “If you wait too long to pick, overripe fruit tastes like sugar water and you lose the lychee flavor,” Steven explained. Picking also has to do with market timing and getting a good price. The first local lychees to hit the local market got top dollar, getting $46 for 10 pounds wholesale. When Mexican lychees came in last Monday, May 30th, the prices crashed down to $25 and are now tumbling even lower. (These are prices for conventionally grown fruit. Organic lychees can fetch considerably more.)

Steven grumbled that NAFTA is the reason for the drop. “In Mexico, growing is much less expensive, and the quality is less, not anywhere as good as locally grown. They pick earlier because they need the extra time in shipping.” NAFTA gives offshore fruit — as growers call imports — another unfair advantage. “Mexican lychees may have prohibited pesticide residues, or have been treated with sulfites to preserve their color. USDA doesn’t have the manpower or resource to inspect all the fruit coming in. Also the retailer is supposed to mark COOL (Country of Origin Label) but there’s almost no enforcement against retailers that don’t. For organic fruit, that’s no problem, because origin is part of the certification.”

A case of organic lychees destined for Whole Foods.

Steven showed me the label that went on each pint clamshell and cardboard case. Among other information, the label had the “Redland Raised Fresh From Florida” logo and the grove’s organic certification number. Shelly stuck labels onto pint sized plastic clamshell containers, then filled one container at a time with number one lychees, and packed 12 to a case. Steven put labels on the cases. The crew would pick and pack fruit for a few more hours. A driver was coming later that afternoon to pick up their order of 40 cases. Steve’s lychees would be in local stores for the weekend selling for $6.99 a pint.

Look carefully and you’ll see a pair of common grackles feasting on fruit.

On my way back into town, I passed by a woman selling lychees by the side of Krome Avenue. It was completely the opposite of a supermarket — a tent, a bin full of lychees, and an ancient looking scale. Three cars had pulled to the side of the road and people were handing her cash for pounds of sweet fruit. Hand lettered signs nearby said LEECHEES $2.00. For that price, most likely the lychees were grown locally and were not organic. I was reminded of something I heard a farmer once tell me: “Growers are price takers, not price makers.” On that sunny Thursday morning deep in the heart of Redland, two kinds of lychees were being sold, and two kinds of prices were being made.

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Happy Thankgiving to all my readers out there! When you sit down to your holiday feast, don’t forget to give thanks for all the farmers who worked hard to bring you those fresh, local organic green beans, maybe the heritage turkey, and the other delicious things on your table.

Thanks to Margie Pikarsky of Bee Heaven Farm, and her family and helpers for providing me with some of the freshest and healthiest food I’ve eaten, and for extending their friendship, kindness and generosity. Thanks also (in no particular order) to Chris and Eva Worden, Robert Barnum, Dan Howard, Hani and Mary Lee Khouri, Cliff Middleton, Gabrielle Marewski, Steven Green, Muriel Olivares, Miguel Bode and Mario Yanez.

This blog wouldn’t exist without their cooperation. Their farms wouldn’t exist without your support. Eat local!

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Steven Green, Green Groves

Meet Steven Green of Green Groves. His day job is professor of tropical biology, conservation and statistics at UM. He also has a two and a half acre grove of various fruit trees. The cute little clementines from a couple weeks ago were his. This week we have lemons from his grove. Steve doesn’t know the name of the variety but does know it was planted in 1938. He says their flavor is “much brighter and more flavorful,” than your average supermarket lemon, and the fruit has a moderate amount of seeds and thick skin.

Steven grows lemon, lime, carambola, calamondin, allspice, monstera, avocado, tangerine, 5 kinds of mango, and lychee. He has been growing fruit since he moved to Redland in 1978, when he bought a 2 1/2 acre avocado grove with trees planted originally in the 1930s. There are still a few of those left, including the lemons. In 1991 Steve planted lychees, but Hurricane Andrew knocked them all down the following year. Putting his scientific knowledge to good use, Steve replanted 125 lychee trees at what he calls the “optimal distance” for orb weaver spiders. They prefer a span of about 2 meters from branch edge to branch edge for their webs. Once the spiders made their webs and settled in, there have been no problems with caterpillar moths in the groves. Lychees have so few pests, Steve says, that he doesn’t used pesticides in his grove. He’s now in the process of getting the grove certified organic.

Lemon from Green Grove

When Steven has way too many lemons, he makes this North African lemon preserve:

Cut the lemon into quarters, bury in kosher salt, add chilis (optional).
Can take out spoonfuls of liquid to cook with.
Store salted lemons in frig.

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